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November 2023

Table of Contents



Hut Ridge Loop

November 5, 2023



One of the longer hikes you can do as part of the Ross Island Trail system takes you out of town for a moment near some of the radar domes at Arrival Heights before going down a spine ridge to Hut Point. This hike offers some solid elevation gain, serious winds, and a good view of town opposite Observation Hill.

You can do this loop either way, but this trip details the anti-clockwise route.

You start off in town, and need to obtain a radio and check out with the firehouse for this hike. From 155, you head north past the waste barn and continue up the inclined road past a row of MILVAN containers.


A panorama looking forward and backwards towards town. Note Ob Hill on the right side.


Forwards backwards.


As the road begins to curve west, it's at a junction here where you can turn off to hike Castle Rock, another trail on the island. Continuing left, you instead find yourself near the start of Arrival Heights, where a number of satellite domes are situated.


For another post.


A 15-foot diameter satellite dish sits inside!


Easing past them, you cross a valley before coming up to the highest point of your hike, which also is where some high winds can be found. This is a good spot to try and lean into the wind, which often blows in excess of 40 MPH on the windward side. If you're looking for more quiet, you can walk a few steps to the leeward side and sit in completely still air as the wind rips directly overhead.


Looking back before a big climb, with the trail highlighted. Note the domes to the right.


A steep climb to the last dome before you turn around and head down.

From here, you turn southeast and make your way down the ridge towards hut point, the location of Discovery hut.




From a ways up, you can see Discovery Hut and Hut Point.


Some more of those geodetic markers I mentioned, along the way.


Looking back up the ridge.


I'll save Hut Point for another, more in-depth post but it's here where the hut was built in 1902 by the 1901-1904 Discovery Expedition led by Robert Falcon Scott. Hut point is a great place to get just a little bit out of town for a good spot to sit and ponder.


Discovery Hut, with downtown McMurdo and Ob Hill in the background.

From here, it's a quick walk back into town where you started. All told, Hut Ridge Loop takes a little under 2 hours and offers some good views of town and beyond, even if it is more than a little windy.


Condition Fun - An Introduction to Antarctic Weather

November 6, 2023


For the sounds of wind from indoors during harsh Antarctic weather, click the above player. Headphones recommended.

About a week after becoming the Willy Sous Chef but before the New York Air National Guard (NYANG) arrived, we had a run-in with some intense Antarctic weather: Condition 1.

Monitoring weather on the ice is a very vital part of operations there, but for outdoor weather at a glance you take a look at the current Condition. Given the variability of weather in Antarctica and the ability for weather to change in a very short timeframe, being able to get an idea of what conditions may be like and what outdoor restrictions may or may not be in effect is easier than knowing the specifics.

McMurdo Station uses three states: Condition 3, Condition 2, and Condition 1. These categories are broken down based on three criteria: wind speed, visibility, and temperature. From Wikipedia:

Condition Criteria Example
Condition 3 /
Normal Condition 3
Must meet all of the following criteria:
  • Visibility is either greater than ¼ mile (400 m) or it falls to ¼ mile or less for less than one minute at a time

  • Windspeed is either below 48 knots (89 km/h; 55 mph), or it reaches 48 knots or above for less than one minute at a time

  • Air temperature and will chill are either above –75 °F (–59 °C), or falls to –75 °F or below for less than one minute at a time
Image
Condition 2 /
Severe Condition 2
Must meet all of the following criteria:
  • Visibility is either greater than or equal to 100 feet (30 m), or it falls below 100 feet for less than one minute at a time

  • Windspeed is either lass than or equal to 55 knots (102 km/h; 63 mph), or it exceeds 55 knots for less than one minute at a time

  • Air temperature and wind chill are either –100 °F (–73 °C) or above, or falls below –100 °F for less than one minute at a time

And must also meet one or more of the following criteria:
  • Visibility is less than or equal to ¼ mile (400 m), sustained for one minute or longer

  • Windspeed greater than 48 knots (89 km/h; 55 mph), sustained for one minute or longer

  • Air temperature and/or wind chill of –75 °F (–59 °C) or below, sustained for one minute or longer
Image
Condition 1 /
Severe Condition 1
Must meet one or more of the following criteria:
  • Visibility is less than 100 feet (30 m), sustained for one minute or longer

  • Windspeed over 55 knots (102 km/h; 63 mph), sustained for one minute or longer

  • Air temperature and/or wind chill below –100 °F (–73 °C), sustained for one minute or longer
Image


With each condition level, there are certain restrictions on outdoor activity put in place to keep people safe. From Chapter 10 of the 2024 Field Manual for the U.S. Antarctic Program:

Condition 3: Unrestricted travel and activity are allowed.

Condition 2: Restricted pedestrian traffic only between buildings is allowed. Vehicular travel is allowed if radio equipped, enclosed vehicles only, and check out is required.

Condition 1: Severe weather is in progress. All personnel must remain in buildings or the nearest shelter.

I've made a chart to break it down visually. You can see that both wind and temperature have the most leeway before Condition 2 is called, whereas Visibility is of greatest concern.



Every vestibule and some central hubs have dot-display LED panels for displaying the current condition so people headed outdoors knew what to prepare for. The area outside of the Building 155 Galley has a television constantly displaying the Conditions of town and all near-field sites. This information was also available on the McMurdo intranet homepage.





Downtown McMurdo sits in a sort of geographic bowl, sheltered from the prevaling winds on three sides. Areas on the ridgetops (T-Site, Arrival Heights, Scott Base, Road to Scott Base) and ice shelf (Phoenix Field, Road to Phoenix Field, Sea Ice, LDB Site, Williams Field) are more exposed to the weather and as such tend to reach Condition 2 or 1 before McMurdo does.

I've been told that "Condition 3 doesn't mean good weather, it just means 'safe for now' weather." A good 90% of the summer season is spent in Condition 3, but the difference in temperatures and especially wind speed did mean the difference between some light layering and bundling up.

That bit about "All personnel must remain in buildings" holds true even while in town, and doesn't offer exceptions for things like eating – it was recommended, especially at the shoulders of mainbody, for those who lived in dorms outside of Building 155 (the building with the Galley) to keep some food in their bedrooms in case the weather ever prevented them from making a mealtime. When it hit Con 2 in town, you would notice more people wrapping plates or pocketing Grab 'n' Go items to take back with them in case the weather got worse. It almost reminds you of the old addage "it's time to get the bread and milk" when it starts to snow.



Condition 2 as viewed from Building 140, which houses shuttles and the post office.


If you're cold, they're cold. Bring them inside.

That's the rundown on the Condition categories of weather at McMurdo, now onto our Condition 1 day out at Willy field. Only about 9 people were working at the airfield that morning, myself and a dining steward included. At around 9 AM, shuttles said they were headed back to town and to call if we needed a ride as regular services were being suspended due to it being Condition 2. By 1145 AM with all Willy workers in the galley, Condition 1 was called on the ice shelf. We were told to shelter in place and were completely safe inside the galley, and the limited service meant we had ample time to watch the weather deteriorate and subsequently improve over the course of the day. Search and Rescue (SAR) was mobilized and we were picked up in a Bandvagn 206 (though everyone just calls them Hägglunds), arriving in town around dinnertime.

I'll stop rambling now and share all of the cool photographs, videos, and sounds I took during Conditions 1 and 2. Most of the videos have sound, and beware of the fact that some of them are loud in the wind. I have more gnarly weather that came at the end of the season, but I'll save that for a later post. Enjoy, and I'll catch you on the flip flop.




Condition 2 in town, as viewed from the west side of Building 155.


Driving to Willy in Con 2. The blurry objects passing by are flags that mark the road.



Willy's Main Street and the Galley in Condition 2.




Looking out the back door towards the skiway ramp after Condition 1 is called.

Compare these videos of the same view, taken over the course of the day.










Thank you indeed to the SAR team.

The Crary Touch Tank

November 11, 2023



Quick little post here about a neat part of Crary Laboratories. Crary (designated building 001) is a hub for scientific activity on station, and there are a number of offices and laboratories present throughout the three levels of the building. A fun little exhibit that ran for a short while on Level 3 was the touch tank.

The touch tank is part of the Crary lab indoor study tanks for the creatures that live in Antarctic waters. Seatwater is pumped directly into the water tanks here in Crary to simulate the environment of these critters, where they can be studied up close and in a more accessible environment.


The touch tank, full of critters.

The touch tank itself was off to the side from the larger holding tanks, and was a nice little concentrated taste of undersea life in Antarctic waters. The larger tanks took up the bulk of the room. The water is dreadfully cold when you stick your hands in.


One of the larger study tanks.

I've included photos of the informative booklet they had on display, but some highlights: The water is kept at 28°F. Many Antarctic aquatic species display polar gigantism, a phenomenon where species adapted for colder waters are much larger than their temperare counterparts. Most of these creatures survive these frigid waters by utilizing some form or another of biological antifreeze in their systems.

Now onto the critters:


The Antarctic soft-shelled clam (Laternula elliptica).


The salmon anenome (Isotealia antarctica).


The giant Antarctic isopod (Glyptonotus antarctica).


Seastar (Diplasterias brucei).


Another seastar (Odontaster sp.)


Some kind of Antarctic fish! I couldn't get a confident ID.


Some kind of invertebrates, presumably of the same species but also not listed in the ID book.


Some big creepy-crawlers, the Antarctic sea spider (uncertain on species). These fellas are as large as dinner plates.



Below are the pages from the ID book, with some additional reading.









That's all for this short update on the Crary touch tank. Thanks for reading! One last bit before I end this - I hope you're as happy as I am that the Antarctic critters get pool toys in their environments.



Castle Rock Loop

November 12, 2023



This post details one of the longest hikes on station: Castle Rock Hike. Without completing any offshoot trails, this hike tops out around 10 miles long and can take up to four hours to complete. It's a great way to spend the day out of town while seeing across parts of Ross Island you don't normally see.

This is a hike for which you need to file an eFoot Plan with the fire station - this is simply a plan that lets them know who you are, who you are with, what hike you plan to do, and your estimated time of return (ETR). If you don't check back in with the firehouse by the time of your ETR, they first give you a phone call and then your contact number. If within five minutes after your ETR you still haven't showed up, the search and rescue (SAR) team is mobilized to try and find you.

The trail starts much the same way as Hut Ridge Loop and shares the same path out of town. When you come across this sign, you instead continue to the right rather than to the left.



After coming a bit out of the ridge, you find yourself at the foot of an ice field. This field is slightly uphill the whole way and (in early November) as slick as can be and very gusty from down slope winds. There were many instances of sliding on backwards on your feet, pushed by the wind.


Looking forward.


Looking backwards towards town (Can you spot Observation Hill?).


You may have spotted it in the "Looking forward" photograph above, but there are two small, insulated shelters on the way to Castle Rock known as "apples". These are in place for hikers who get caught when bad weather quickly moves in. The first one (Apple 1, pictured below), is located at the end of the first ice field, roughly halfway between town and Castle Rock itself. It's a good place to take a breather, drink some water, and have a snack.

While you are meant to plan for weather, carry your own extreme cold weather gear, and pack your own food and water for the hike, these apples are also supplied with things like blankets, first aid kits, a fire extinguisher, and toilet paper should you be caught in poor weather and need to shelter in place for a while.



Just outside of Apple 1 looking forward, Castle Rock pokes its head out above the ridge.


It's about here that you can look to the northeast and see both LDB Site and Williams Airfield as tiny specks on the ice shelf.


Castle Rock sits ahead, still dwarfed by Mount Erebus.

After another stretch on less-treacherous ice than before, you come to the second apple near the base of Castle Rock. This one is slightly larger, being further away from town, but like the first one it is unheated.




Castle Rock does have a trail leading to the top that is guided by ropes to help prevent falls. However, we went too early in the season and as such the rope trail was not set up and the trail was closed. brr.fyi details the trail to the top in the Castle Rock Climb post.

Since the trail to the top was closed, we admired Castle Rock from below and soaked in the Antarctic scenery. It's about here where you really feel like you're on a different planet, as you are well outside of town and can see parts of southwestern Ross Island, which isn't something people working in town see on the regular.






It was just before this shot here on our hike where we noticed the flags had stopped moving almost entirely, and recognized that without wind and being so far away from town it was dead silent. My hiking partner and I stopped and laid down on the trail to soak in the otherworldly silence and got up only because their feet were getting too cold to bear (completely understandable). They're a dear friend and we both agree that soaking in that quiet space remains a top 3 (if not number 1) Antarctic memory.


Just after the wind started to pick back up.

Continuing on, you follow the curve of the trail eastward and down a large slope towards the ice shelf road. It's on this slope where you have to be careful, and sliding down is more advisable than straight walking.



Black flags mark a hazard, immediately to the left and right of the trail.

After you make it to the ice shelf road, you come across the last shelter, which we dubbed the "alien". It's a Scott Base green dome with a commode inside.



From there, you're still about three or four miles away from McMurdo, and it's mostly uphill now! You hike on the ice shelf road back onto Ross Island, past Scott Base, and back into town past the fuel tanks (views I evidently don't have photographs of).



Thanks for reading!


Flag Breakdown



This is a very brief post on the flagging system for McMurdo station.

The flagging system for McMurdo is very straightforward and almost entirely pertains to navigation on the ice shelf. Flags are mostly used to mark the roads but were also used to mark airstrip and airfield ramp boundaries as well as building locations.

In short:


Green means good, no apparent hazard.


Red means caution, be wary. This could be soft ice or unpacked snow.


Black means caution, no travel. Immediate hazard such as a crevasse.

There is an additional flag colour, Blue, which I don't have photographed. Blue flags mark the fuel lines that run from Ross island out to Williams and Phoenix airfields. These flags are less accessible for photographs as they follow more direct routes out to their destinations rather than following the roads.

Crossed flags could be in any colour and are meant to attract greater attention.




They are meant to signal a point of interest and to emphasize the original flag colour's meaning. The photos above give a few examples. Crossed black means "extreme danger, crevasse" as well as "park no further, drop". Crossed red could signifiy the end of a trail, or be paired with crossed green flags to signal an electrical cable.

These are just a few examples, as flags are pretty much everywhere on the ice shelf and around town to mark different things. You'll note that each one has a pole made of bamboo. This is due to the flexibility and low cost of the material. Flags face the harshest conditions the continent has to offer, year-round. Strong winds regularly break or topple flags and ease of replacement is important.




Mail Call!

2024.11.20



The mail at McMurdo has a very good writeup by brr.fyi – I suggest you go look at that post for a more detailed breakdown as I'll be going over the most basic and most pertinent details of sending and receiving mail while on the ice. For the most accurate and detailed information on ice mail, refer to the most recent version of the USAP Participant Guide.

The post office is located in Building 140, which also houses shuttles and passenger services/logistics (the people who get you on the plane home). The addresses for McMurdo, Palmer, and Amundsen-Scott stations are all publically available and are located in the USAP Participant Guide. Each post office is handled by the armed forces and as such are listed as Army Post Offices (APO), meaning rates for sending mail to and from these offices are the same as domestic rates. That's correct, you can send a large flat-rate box to Antarctica for the same price as sending it within the United States.



The mail is subject to the same mailing restrictions as regular international packages through the United States Postal Service, as each package is processed through New Zealand. Not only do you need to fill out Customs Form 2976-R for the contents of your package, you need to make sure you're not mailing any prohibited items (I referenced the USPS International Mail Manual and their Publication 52 which handles perishables and HAZMAT).

One of the first things I did in the weeks leading up to my deployment to the ice was put together a care package and send it to myself ahead of time. This way, I could save on some luggage weight by shipping things like soaps, shampoos, toothpaste, and snacks down through the mail. Liquids (hot sauces and shampoos) had to be triple-wrapped to prevent breakage as there is no guarantee of climate control for parcels.



When mailing flat mail, you simply write the listed address, attach the necessary postage, and mail it as normal. When mailing any packages (and this includes envelopes with anything more than regular correspondance), you must fill out and attach Customs Form 2976-R to the parcel. This can be done through services such as USPS Click-N-Ship or PirateShip, and must be adhered to the package when handing it in to a U.S. Postal Worker. You must go to a post office and hand it in to a postal worker to mail packages to an APO.

When doing so, ensure they copy the address as listed. The postal worker I went to put in APO-AE (Army Post Office - American East) by force of habit since most of APO mail they sent went to Canada, Europe, the Middle East, and Africa – all of which fall under APO-AE. McMurdo and South Pole station are under the realm of APO-AP (Army Post Office - American Pacific).

When the package is out of your hands, it's in the care of the USPS via an International Service Center (I was told McMurdo and Pole mail routes through Chicago) and eventually the United States Air Force (USAF) or New York Air National Guard (NYANG). It is likely that any package you receive will have been opened and inspected by New Zealand Customs (note the tape in the photo below). I was told that there is a customs training facility in Cheech and they like to use incoming Antarctic mail for practice.



En route to its destination in Antarctica, the mail follows a regular flight path from the USA to New Zealand. When in Christchurch, it is processed and held by an APO located right next to the Clothing Distribution Center (CDC). From there, tracking becomes unreliable and your package is at the mercy of the flight schedule and how much mail is waiting ahead of yours.


There were at least two instances in 2023-2024 where people wrote to the station as a whole. Thanks Patrick.

I briefly mentioned the "flight gap" in my post on Observation Hill. This is the period from late November/early December to mid-to-late February where Phoenix airfield is too soft to handle regular flights and the C17s stop coming down. The C17s are very large planes, and regular flights means packages and freshies galore! However, when they halt operations, the LC-130Hs step up to the plate and handle intercontinental flights to and from Cheech. These planes are much smaller and can only hold so much, so only limited amounts of package mail will make it through on these flights (flat mail is generally able to be squeeezed on most flights).

Pair this fact with the hierarchy of cargo. On any given flight, certain cargos are deemed more important than others. If an essential item is needed on the next flight down, other items (including mail) will get pushed back. From what I recall, the general hierarchy for cargo (not including personnel) goes:

Essential Items/Special Cargo > Regular Cargo and Instrumentation > Package Mail (sorted by size)

That's right, if you have an egregiously large package, it will be bumped down the list. Freshies fall under "Special Cargo" given their limited shelf life – there were unfortunately times where weather kept planes on the tarmac in Cheech and our much-anticipated freshies sat for an extra few days.

When your package eventually makes it on a plane and down to the ice, it gets unloaded and sorted at Building 140, where they'll let you know if you've received mail. You can check if you have any waiting parcels by looking on the McMurdo Intranet (seeing your name on that long list of people always brought a wave of excitement). I chose this date for my post on mail because, well over two after mailing it to myself, my self-addressed package arrived!



Outgoing mail was regular enough during mainbody, but there were often signs posted on community boards detailing mailing deadlines. For things such as holidays or in instances where there would be slight flight gaps (such as between the end of mainbody and shoulder), the post office urged you to get an early jump on outgoing mail.


Postal rates on a blue mailbox as well as a weigh station outside of the mailroom for outgoing parcels.




One last fun thing about the post office was their rubber stamp collection. I always made sure to decorate any postcards or envelopes with some of the art found there.



And all outgoing flatmail received the McMurdo Post Office Stamp as well!



To end this wall of text, I'll just say that receiving mail on station is a huge morale boost, and to walk out of Building 140 holding a postcard, letter, or package always put a big smile on my face. I hope I was able to make you as excited about the postal service as I am. Thank you for reading!


South Pole Overland Traverse - SPOT

2024.11.23


From reddit user The_Borpus.

Let me be EXTREMELY clear up front: I had very limited interaction with the SPOT crew and cannot speak for the ins and outs of the mission. This post is a brief detail on what I know before pointing you in the proper directions to learn more about this extremely cool project.

SPOT, the South Pole Overland Traverse, is a project that aims to reduce the footprint for delivering cargo and fuel from McMurdo station to the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. Tractors pull fuel in huge bladders and cargo on sleds, along with a few buildings for living, sleeping, and storage, nearly 1,000 miles across the Ross Ice Shelf and the Leverett Glacier.


View from Willy field: SPOT tractors on the horizon, staged with fuel bladders in tow.

The route is flagged and has been reused since the start of its constrution in 2002-2003, but road conditions vary from powdery snow to slush to hardened sastrugi, compacted snow drifts formed by wind. The main concern are crevasses, which form at the meeting points of the ice shelf and glacier, so tractors must take great care on the route. I've been told by a SPOT driver that the bumps felt when going over sastrugi jostle you around so much that your temper shortens and you get "tractor angry". Think hands tightly clutched and your body hunched over the steering wheel with an evil eye.

Altogether the bladders on one tractor can carry over 20,000 lbs of fuel and save approximately 30 to 40 flights to the South Pole each summer – historically, the LC-130H planes would fly down to the South Pole with more than enough fuel for their return trip to McMurdo station and simply offload the extra fuel. However, poor weather in the summertime can delay and drastically reduce the number of flights that make it to the Pole, raising concern for meeting necessary fuel stores before winter.




SPOT is seen as a more reliable and less carbon-intensive way to get fuel and some cargo down to the Pole, with the added bonus of being able to take some waste and cargo back up to McMurdo on the return journey. As you can imagine, 20,000 lbs of fuel per tractor is quite heavy, and the journey south averages 5 MPH and takes, on average, over a month to complete (the fastest I've ever heard it done was three weeks). The return journey, unburdened by all of the fuel, averages over 10 MPH and takes only a few weeks. On the internal mailing list, we would often get updates on where the SPOT team was and what they were seeing.

That's about all I know about SPOT – below are some links to other looks, videos, and firsthand accounts of people on the SPOT team. Props to them - they were treated like superstars on station from what I saw and they deserved it. With such a remote environment and limited team, everyone has to be multi-talented in order to fill several jobs at once; mechanic, meteorologist, cook, driver, and more.

More Extensive SPOT Resources:


I urge you to read on, as it's such an interesting topic and impressive solution to such a large challenge I couldn't leave it out. Unfortunately, I wish I knew more about the project as a whole but will leave it to those who know it better.


FOOD

2024.11.25



That's right, it's time.

I knew in advance that this was going to be one of the longest posts to date, and it's a little puzzling because the answer to "what do you eat in Antarctica?" is pretty simple yet a very fun one to dissect. I feel like it's impossible to write about food on the ice without discussing some people's attitudes towards the food on the ice, and having been behind the scenes in the kitchen I certainly am biased. I fear that this bias will show, but I will elaborate (read: ramble) and hope you understand where I'm coming from.


Bottom line up front: I'm writing this after having finished this post. I do believe it's the longest one to date, and I know there are bits and pieces that fell through the cracks. However, I think this is a comprehensive look at the behind the scenes of food production at McMurdo Station. Enjoy and thank you for reading!


Where to start?

Getting Food to Your Plate

In Antarctica, you eat food. McMurdo station follows a 35-day rotating menu that offers everything from Americana to Mexican to Indian to Asian and everything in-between. For where you are and the absolute logistical nightmare it is to get things down there, the food is actually pretty good. We'll leave fresh food out of the equation for now, so assume that anything you eat has been built up out of dried goods, frozen goods, or came from a can. Yes, you can tell when it hits your plate but the galley does a tremendous job with what they have.


The vessel in January offloading cargo, icebreaker behind.

Let's back up a bit and follow the journey that non-perishables take to reach a plate at McMurdo. It starts at a computer in early summer, when an order is made by the Culinary Manager (in tandem with the Head Chef) for the entire next year's meals (upwards of 1,000,000 portions for the USAP program between Pole and McMurdo) is placed. Before the end of the year, all of these food goods are amassed and loaded onto a cargo ship that departs from southern California and is headed, with brief stops along the way, to McMurdo. When it arrives in mid-January, all of the food (along with every other bit of cargo, more on this later) is unloaded and stored in one of a few supply buildings on station. The bulk of it goes to the supply building directly across the street from Building 155.


A supply delivery waiting to be brought into the Galley.

When it reaches the supply building, it sits and waits for a supply order to come in. These orders are done weekly and made by the Food Services Supervisor with expectations of what the station will eat and in what quantity – a moving bullseye based on population, people's taste, time of year, and menu items. The supply crew then delivers all ordered items to the galley, where it is unloaded and put into its proper storage in the back of the house. From there, it's handled by the Food Clerks to make sure the planned amounts of ingredients are ready and thawing to be used by the cooks. The day before a given menu item hits the hot line, some items are staged and ready to be used the following day, and a few hours before mealtime a Production Cook starts making that menu item. At meal time, the food sits in the hot line until scopped onto the plate of a Mactown worker, where we end our journey (unless you count the wastewater plant).

Given that tremendous journey, it's a miracle to me that there's any food variety at all, let alone a 35-day rotating menu with tastes from around the globe. I've always wanted to do the math to see the cost of an average plate at McMurdo.


What's on the Menu

But I'm still not talking about the food itself, let's back it up and talk about the hot and cold line layouts for McMurdo and Willy.

We'll start with the main line: the 155 Galley has eight hot wells for keeping menu items hot, four hot spots for soups or sauces, four cold wells for chilled items and salads, and an area for bread and dessert. The layout for meals was pretty standard and was able to cater to most anyone.




Number Food Type Example
1 Soup 1 Vegetarian Chili
2 Soup 2 Chicken Soup
3 Vegetable 1 Green Beans
4 Vegetable 2 Scandinavian Blend
5 Bake or Starch 1 Enchilada Bake
6 Starch 2 Egg Noodles
7 Meat 1 Beef Stroganoff
8 Meat 2 Herb Roasted Chicken
9 Vegetarian Mushroom Stroganoff
10 Plain Protein Chicken / Black Beans
11 Chilled 1 Spinach
12 Chilled 2 Bell Peppers / Red Onion
13 Chilled 3 Vinaigrette / Italian Dressing
14 Chilled 4 Jello
15 Bread Country Loaf
16 Dessert Vanilla Iced Cake


These are just example items (that really are served on ice) and doesn't necessarily represent a full mealtime's menu. Soups and bakes were usually a way to reuse extra food from the previous day – bakes took a previous meat, added some kind of starch (usually a noodle), sauce, and cheese, and were baked into a casserole. Cold line wells were usually split into two smaller basins to offer more. The above examples are contingent on freshies being available, and when they weren't it was usually some sort of composed salad and canned items.

In addition to all of this, the 155 galley has:

Willy Galley had a similar setup to 155 Galley, only smaller. Where 155 served upwards of 900 people during peak season, Willy served the remaining 100 or so as they were out on the airfield working.



Number Food Type Example
1 Chilled 1 Jello
2 Chilled 2 Compose Salad
3 Chilled 3 Canned Fruit (x2)
4 Chilled 4 Canned Salad (x2)
5 Meat Main Chicken Tenders
6 Vegetarian Main Country Fried Tofu
7 Starch French Fries
8 Vegetable Brussels Sprouts
9 Fresh Bread Focaccia
10 Dessert German Chocolate Cake
11 Willy Chili Willy Chili
12 Roller Grill Hot Dogs / Corndogs


In addition to the main line described above, Willy Galley also had smaller versions of the Grab 'n' Go fridge, deli corner, cereal corner, waffle iron, panini press, cookie box, toaster, microwave, and juice and water dispensers. The point of all of this is to not let those on the ice shelf miss out on too much that main station has to offer while they're away.

Willy Chilly was an in-house recipe of beef chili that was available 24/7. It was a staple to Willy Galley, and returners from previous years were excited to have it again. I like the idea of having a hot bowl of something after coming in from cold work on the ice shelf.

Hopefully by reading this you are now becoming aware of two things:

1) Keeping people fed at McMurdo is a massive undertaking. This entire spread has to be repeated three to four times every day and is only done by having the kitchen run 24 hours a day during mainbody to meet the mealtimes for up to 1000 people on station at peak population. To have such a variety in Antarctica is mind-blowing.

2) The variety of food offered year-round is absolute luxury when you recognize where you're eating. Looking at the above list of food items available you would wonder how anyone could complain about the food on the ice, but it happens frequently. Is it the best food on the planet? No, but it's hot, varied (remember that 35-day rotating menu), regular, and at no cost to employees.

I don't want to harp on this point for too long, but having been through the kitchen I feel the need to back up the galley crew on this point. Food is an easy thing to complain about in such a regimented setting like McMurdo - everyone eats, it's an easy common demoninator to talk about and after a while the repetitive nature of frozen vegetables can get to you, sure. However, some of the complaints I've heard or were shared with me could generate no response but a laugh. Some notable complaints:
These instances were relatively rare and isolated, and people really were glad to eat. I don't intend to shame anyone or make everyone out to be ungrateful, but I still feel it's important to remember where you are. To people who complain about food just to complain about something, all I can ask is: "Did you eat your dog today?".


The Food Itself

I think I've given an idea of what the food on ice is like, but to show you I'll share some of the plates I ate over the course of the season below. These are in no particular order, but feel free to zoom in and note what you see on the plate.

As you can see, not too bad! At worst it's like regular cafeteria food and at best it's a really good meal. I personally never had issue with the food, even if I wasn't the one making it.













The Main Galley

I briefly went over Willy Galley in a previous post, but I haven't elaborated on the 155 Galley. Here's a bit of a dive into the layout of the galley, its capabilities, and some photographs.

Below is a rough blueprint of the 155 Galley (most names are true but some were made up). It is by no means to scale and done entirely from memory, but all of the base components are there in their respective places:



There's a lot to break down here:

Number Room Name Purpose
1 Club Meat Sweat Thawing meat up to a week in advance (33° - 41°F)
2 Cooler Staging prepped food items for firing (33° - 41°F)
3 Garde Manger Storing cheeses, freshies when available (33° - 41°F)
4 Loading Dock Receiving food pulls from the Supply team
5 Walk In Freezer Storing frozen items, including prepackaged items (0° - 32°F)
6 Hallway Staging items for delivery to LDB Site or Willy Field
7 Baker's Freezer Small freezer for bakery-specific storage (0° - 32°F)
8 Baker's Chiller Small walk-in for bakery-specific storage, staging of baked goods (33° - 41°F)
9 The Loft Paper good and additional equipment storage
10 Pots Room Cleaning and sanitizing all back of house kitchenware
11 Cook's Box Storage of leftovers, staging for Grab 'n' Go (33° - 41°F)
12 Dry Valleys Dry and non-perishable good storage (grains, legumes, oils)
13 Zalad Room Dedicated to cold line food preparation
14 Office Office for Culinary Manager
15 Deli Chiller Small storage for deli breads, including gluten free items (33° - 41°F)
16 Splash Zone Porter sink and mop bucket storage
17 Office Office for Head Chef, Food Services Supervisor, and Food Administrator
18 Hallway Additional storage for bulk bakery items, flavourings, and colourings
19 Galley Proper Where the magic happens
20 Bakery Where the real magic happens
21 Clerk's Corner Computer for Food Clerks and additional storage for work snack order items

Looking more closely at the kitchen proper, we can walk through some more ins and outs. Note that this doesn't include some minutae like handwashing sinks, garbage bins, etc.



Number Area
1 Utensil and Pot Storage
2 Canned goods and spice storage
3 Mixing bowls, cambros, lexans
4 Prep table
5 Commercial steam kettles
6 Prep tables
7 Left: Steam ovens, deep friers, stove
Right: Tilt skillets
8 Left: Conventional ovens
Right: Bakers' ovens
9 Proofing cabinet, stand mixers
10 Prep tables
11 Bulk grain storage, food staging
12 Heating shams for staging
13 Cooling shams for staging


The bakery and its ovens.


Looking at the heating and cooling shams.


Looking at Tilt Skillet row.


The main prep tables, through the doorway to Dry Valley and the cooler.


Dry Valley.


Pots room buildup at its worst and the pots room itself.


Looking from the Pots room to the main kitchen.


A reverse of the above shot.

As you can see, it's a lot. Within the main galley, the kitchen aims to staff 20 to 30 cooks, up to 5 on the baking staff, and 20 to 30 stewards to keep the machine running smoothly - this doesn't include field cooks or ice shelf cooks. A whole operation to keep pace with more than 3,000 meals each day at peak population and 500 in midwinter. I've probably harped on it enough but I was impressed each and every day with the variety of food present down on the ice, and the fact that I could have soft serve ice cream any time of day is a testament to the coordination of the USAP (despite what grumblings you may hear).


Willy Galley

Willy Galley is small enough to not need a floorplan to visualize. Instead I'll just discuss a bit more of the back of house for Willy Galley in this (hopefully brief) section.

The kitchen part of Willy Galley is best described as plug-and-play. There were no hard-wired cooking appliances, but rather an assortment of tabletop wares with which to cook a meal on. I often described Willy as a "fun challenge" because part of the day was spent thinking about where and how you could cook your menu items to get everything out on time.


Plug-and-play and EZ-Bake.

The heavy lifters were two electric ovens and two tabletop induction burners. Additional items were cranked out, as needed, on two domestic deep friers and two electric griddles. Willy Field cooking was 100% about time management, since it wasn't likely that you'd be able to cook everything at the same time. In addition, you had to be careful to not trip the breaker by having too many things running at once.


90% of Willy Galley's food storage

Food storage at Willy Field was also a fun challenge, as there wasn't enough room to plan even a few days in advance. There was one freezer which was used mostly for staples (vegetables, breakfast items), a small walk-in cooler, and a section for dry and canned goods. It was regular to plan a resupply each morning for most of the food items, and also common for each shift to bring additional food items to meet their needs. Willy Galley is a constant input-output of food items.


The outbound shelf for Willy Field and the Willy freezer.

The last quirk of Willy Galley was the fact that raw poultry items (including eggs) couldn't be taken out due to concerns of avian flu reaching the continent. Willy galley's wastewater was not treated as intensively as the water treatment at McMurdo station before being drained to the Ross Sea, and there was no guarantee that avian flu wouldn't survive that process. As such, chicken items had to either be precooked, frozen items or be cooked at the Main Galley, chilled to safe temps, and brought out to Willy field to be recooked (I don't know why people were so excited for twice-cooked chicken tenders at Willy).


Grab 'n' Go and Expiry Dates

Grab 'n' Go is as simple as it sounds - leftover food portioned into single-serving sized and put in a front of house refrigerator for people to take as they please. Grab 'n' Go items are great for people working in the near field, people packing their own flight lunch, people going on hikes, or people who just want a decent bite in-between meal periods.


Some Grab 'n' Go items.

While there was a non-zero amount of food waste from the kitchen, Grab 'n' Go is a great way to cut back on that waste and to give people a bit more choice when snacking. Grab 'n' Go food items follow the same guidelines as any food cooked on station: it can be stored and served for up to 6 days after its initial cook date.

If you've looked at all into the food in Antarctica or chatted with anyone who has spent time on the ice, you'll likely have heard that expired food is served extensively on ice. The truth is, yes, a lot of ingredients in almost anything you eat are expired. However, this is the breakdown I was given concerning expired food.

When the food order is placed, none of the food purchased is expired. However, due to the length of time that food may sit in safe storage between May and January (when it arrives on the vessel), some food does arrive to the ice already expired. When food is put into the supply warehouses, it sits there in safe storage until it's needed. However, due to actual demand being different from expected demand, some food items are replenished each year more quickly than they can be depleted. In some cases, far too much of an item is ordered and it sits for years. Since things are pulled for the galley as needed, the oldest is brought out first and this is sometimes very noticeable when you see a food item several years out of date. The oldest food item we saw was a box of grits dated to 2005, older than our youngest chef this season.

Some food is also recycled into soups or bakes, but let me be clear: the six-day limit after the first time that food has been cooked is a hard limit, and no food is stored longer than that. If an item is three days after its initial cook and is turned into a soup, that soup has three days left before it's tossed – recycling that item does not extend its storage life.


Freshies

Freshies! A silver lining to food on the ice, something that brightened your day when they were available. The supply of freshies was entirely dependent on the C17s coming and going from Phoenix airfield. It was always a big deal when a C17 landed with freshies, as the kitchen often had to handle several tens of thousands of pounds of fresh foods to be stored in the garde manger.




When freshies hit the kitchen, we did our best to use all of them until they were well long in the tooth in any meal we could. A large amount of freshies were hand fruit: things put out in bowls for grabbing by diners. It was mostly limited to some hardier fruits but there were some softies now and again: oranges, clementines, apples, bananas, kiwis, plums, avocados, and the occasional mango. Other freshie items were for the salad line: lettuce, cabbage, spinach, pineapple, cantaloupe, honeydew, tomatoes, and strawberries on one occasion. The last, broad category were to be incorporated to foods such as russet potatoes, Yukon gold potatoes, red onions, yellow onions, carrots, bell peppers, sweetpotatoes, garlic, and herbs (rosemary and thyme being big ones). I'm sure there were a few more but these are the ones that immediately come to mind – writing them down really shows how varied the fresh food availability actually was.




Freshie onion rings! I had a hard time keeping up with demand but we got it done.

However, during the flight gaps the lack of freshies was certainly felt. Freshies lasted a few days (in the case of fruit) or a couple of weeks (in the case of cabbage and beets), and when they were gone, some of us quickly felt their absence. It always helped to pick up a piece of fruit even if you didn't want it at that moment so you could save it for a rainy day. I recall one night after maybe six weeks of no freshies: I was sleeping in bed when my friend knocked on the door and opened it, threw an apple and an orange at me, then ran away as I smiled holding them, drifting off to sleep with the fruit in hand.

It always felt like a holiday when you walked into the kitchen to find the garde manger packed full to the brim with freshies.



And summer has it very easy compared to winter! The longest I went without fresh food was roughly six weeks during the longest flight gap, followed closely by about four weeks during the delays before I left the ice (more on this later). Winter crews at McMurdo have to go up to three months without fresh food (from the last flight out in May to the first flight in in August), and in theory the South Pole goes up to eight months without fresh food, as the last flight out for their winter is Feburary 15 and their last flight in is October 25 (and that is with favourable weather conditions). Unimaginable. However, the Pole does have a greenhouse (detailed a bit here in a brr.fyi post) which can supply some limited quantities of fresh fruits and vegetables, leafy greens, and herbs. I personally think the greenhouse is underutilized and underperforming as a volunteer-ran operation, and that a full time greenhouse manager position could benefit the production at the Pole (if any NSF or USAP representative is looking to create and fill this role, I volunteer).




Common Questions

I'm sure there are a lot of things that I have missed, but this post has covered quite a bit and I hope it's given a good insight to the ins and outs of the food production operations at McMurdo. I'm curious of how things go down at LDB site, deep field camps, and at the South Pole, but I can't speak to those. For a video glossing on McMurdo and field camp foods, this NOVA documentary on PBS Terra titled "What Do You Eat in Antarctica? | Antarctic Extremes" is a very good watch.

Here are a few questions I have been asked that I wasn't quite sure where to put in this post:

How does McMurdo handle allergens?
Food hygiene was very well practiced from what I saw, and that extends to allergens. When put out on the line, all foods are marked with allergens they may contain, and we kept a careful eye out for these. Any leftovers were also promptly marked with the food item name, its allergens, and its Use-By date. Below are a list of the allergens we watched for:

How would someone with dietary restrictions fare at McMurdo? Could you be vegan or vegetarian?
I think it would depend on your restrictions. In short: Vegetarianism is pretty easy, being vegan would be very difficult. In reality, only 1/5 of the hot line items directly contained meat, as starches and vegetables were usually cooked without animal products so as not to cause headache for people with dietary restrictions. However, the vegetarian entrée was usually cooked with either egg or dairy. I knew of at least two celiacs on the ice who managed to make it through without too much issue, and as I mentioned above the deli corner has a number of gluten-free options.


What food items should I bring down?
Most bases are covered aside from specific desires. Bring down your favourite hot sauces (the more the merrier), some of your favourite candies and other snacks, and your favourite teas or coffee. To save on weight, consider mailing these items down ahead of time. One things I'll suggest: consider candies that are fun-sized and can be handed out easily. The best pick-me-up to give to someone was giving a fist bump and then opening your hand to reveal a piece of candy. Just be sure that whatever you pack can make it through New Zealand customs.


Did you ever run out of food?
We never ran out of food but very often we would run out of ingredients, and this goes two ways. Sometimes, we would run out of an ingredient and would have to wait until the next food pull to replenish it. Food pulls happened once a week when the supply team delivered everything that was ordered. Substitutions were made or portions reduced if we felt we would run out of something before the resupply.


This happened every week or two, business as usual.

In a few rare cases, we ran out of things altogether until the vessel resupply. That's right, we had a couple of instances where something would run out and that would be it until the vessel came down in January to bring stable goods for the whole next year. Raspberry jam was a big blow, but the worst hit us when we ran out of waffle batter mix. I swear you could feel the tension grow when the waffles ran out, and it took less than a week for the bakery to start making a mix from scratch so people wouldn't riot. A funny thing is, Willy field Galley actually had the last box of waffle mix for the whole station since we tended to go through it at a slower rate. When that waffle was gone, that was it for Krusteaz until late January.


The last Krusteaze waffle, shortly before being enjoyed by a firefighter.


Pizza?!
Pizza! Yes, there was a pizza station that ran during lunch and dinner mealtimes (including Midrats) on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays for my season on the ice. In years past, I was told that pizza was a 24/7 operation during mainbody. In my two weeks before being pulled to Willy, I personally tossed over 500 pies during lunch hours – people liked to grab their plate and fill it with lunch, then cruise by the pizza station to put a slice on top in what we called the "McMurdo Garnish".



You could also order pizzas 48 hours in advance for pickup and without any limitation, which I always enjoyed. It felt weird to order a pizza in Antarctica. Additionally, you could order a cake from the bakery, though this was was limited to one cake per person per season.




Did the ice cream machine ever break?
We never stood a chance. The Frosty Boy was broken for over three months before replacements came in on vessel. Apparently they were long overdue for replacement, and got an upgrade to Spaceman. There was a funeral held on the loading dock, with full honours.


Goodbye to our heroes Frosty Boy and Flavour Boy.


Were there any other fun stations besides pizza?
Yes, these were called Action Stations and they happened sparingly throughout the season (I believe our kitchen had a lower number of cooks than previous years, so these action stations weren't as regularly offered). Every morning, there was the Egg Line, an action station where you had fresh or cartoned eggs made to order. I personally saw (at different times) a Mac and Cheese station with optional mix-ins, a Burger bar, and a Wings station with choice of sauces. In years past I've been told of burrito stations.


Were there any attempts to "shake up" mealtime to keep things interesting?
Absolutely. Every Tuesday was Taco Tuesday, where we served Mexican-style foods (even at Willy field) complete with a build-your-own nacho bar with toppings. Every Friday was Steak night, and people certainly lined up for that. Every Sunday had brunch, complete with chips, dips, an action station for pancakes or french toast, egg line, a meat carving station, and a cheese mirror platter. I was one of the few lucky cooks to have Sundays off (being out at Willy), so I could enjoy brunch with a tinge of guilt as I saw my fellow galley members working on the busiest galley day of the week.


French toast for Sunday Brunch and soon-to-be refried beans for Taco Tuesday.


Did the galley host any special occasions? Holidays?
Both Thanksgiving and Christmas were celebrated with above-and-beyond meals on the nearest Sunday to their actual date. By above and beyond I mean it - full tablecloths, reserved mealtimes, beverage tickets, special placards, the works. What were two days of relaxation for the rest of the station were the two busiest days for the galley. Both of these days had several weeks of planning the galley, and each galley worker had to work 12-hour days instead of the usual 10 to pull them off successfully. Like Sundays, I was spared the torture of Thanksgiving and Christmas and instead volunteered a few hours so as to lend a helping hand where needed. To list the menu items for each of these days would lengthen this already too-long post, so if you can imagine eating it on Thanksgiving or Christmas, it was probably there. Lots of desserts.


Gobble gobble.


First and second thanksgivings – one was with the Galley crew, one was with the Seal Team.


Christmas dinner.



Do you think working in the galley is one of the hardest jobs on station?
Not a food question but something that came up with people both on and on the ice. This is a tricky question to answer, because there are a lot more objectively difficult, technical, and dangerous jobs on the ice. I think what people (even on station) meant when they asked this question was whether or not we worked the hardest out of anyone on station. Again, I'd probably disagree but it's impossible to ignore the fact that the kitchen work was the most steady of the high-pace/intensity jobs on station.

Even on days with poor weather where other work teams were socked in, the kitchen ran at full force because no matter what, everyone has to eat and that can't be delayed. Meals have to go out on time every single day without pause, regardless of outside factors. I think therein lies the difficulty – there was never any break for the kitchen, where other work teams may have down time in their day or the rare unexpected time off. Pairing this with the fact that the galley crew worked offset hours (as opposed to "town hours": 7:30 AM to 5:30 PM) and that fewer than five galley workers (myself included) had Sundays off, you start to see why working in the galley could be difficult. The nature of the work itself isn't too bad, but the external factors that slightly separate you from the rest of town are certainly felt.


What's the worst thing you saw in the kitchen?

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